The on and off-road four wheel drive vehicle

The original post ask if the was something that would help a loaded
(as in full) Cherekee ride level with out affecting the ride.
        Someone suggested air shocks.  But what I think is required are
air bags.  There is a company that makes an air bag system similar to
what is used on the 18 wheelers. I think J.C. Whitney sells the same
setup.  FOURWHEELER did an artical on these awhile back and the system
didn’t seemto affect the ride of the vehical.  
        I think the company was called AIR RIDE or something like that

                                                SHORT

        Graves wrote that he wanted to put his springs on top of his axles
 On the front axles the U-Bolts clamp around the casting of the differental
you would have to machine a new spring perch in this casting.
        And then to put thi in a JEEP you need to make sure that the
differental will be centered between the springs. ie. one wheel doesn’t
stick out from the wheel well just to be able to mount the differental
side spring correctly. The best way would be to shorten one side of axle
a little bit, but not the cheapest.  You could still widen the track
                                                SHORT

I’ve got one (Rhino Liner) in my longbed ’92 F-150.  It’s been very
durable; while I don’t punish it on a daily basis, I’ve hauled my
four-heeler, wood, and lots of other stuff with no problems.  They are
expensive; I paid $300 for mine, which I got by knowing the owner of a
local truck accessory shop.  I know many people pay $450 plus, but if you
have competition in your area, you should be able to get a lower price.
Things don’t slip, looks better, water won’t get trapped between the liner
and bed (no rust), no holes to drill…only real disadvatage is the price,
but I’d still reccommend it.

I think the JGC gets a passenger airbag next year, and Motor Trend says in
their April issue that it will get a total redo in ’99.

In article <netz-0803951446340…@jeepers.lanl.gov> n…@vega.lanl.gov (Mess with Texas) writes:

> In article <ties2-080395091…@138.192.4.54>, ti…@informns.k12.mn.us
> (TIES 2) wrote:

> > are chevy’s s-10′s really that good of a buy?

> …. well, I put 210k miles on my first one, and have 135k on my second
> one, still going strong, not a peep or whimper… I expect to take this
> one to the moon (235k miles) …I LOVE ‘EM!!!!!!!!!!

Why is it that everybody else’s works fine except mine?  The transmission has
never done anything but clunka-clunka-clunka no matter how hard I try to keep
it from doing it.  And the suspension in the front pops so badly (has forever)
that it makes the steering happen in jerks.  Let’s see.  The engine burns oil
like a mutha!  The drive train is nothing but trouble, rattle rattle rattle
CLANK!  And 4wd leaves much to be desired, at 45 it rips itself off the axle.  
I loved it when I first bought it, but it has been nothing but unfixable
trouble since 91.  I wanted one bad.  I might have bought a new one had this
one not given me so much trouble and they hadn’t changed the body style to a
yuppy wagon.

–
     One Ring to rule them all, One Ring to find them,
     One Ring to bring them all and in the darkness bind them
     In the Land of Mordor, where the Shadows lie.
<->                  C. Taylor Sutherland, III               <->
<->      IRC Nick:  NIV       <-> tayl…@hubcap.clemson.edu <->

I would think that any motor oil with an API rating higher than
SG would do just fine.  As far as deciding whether to use a
straight or winterized type, that might depend on your driving
habits and the environment in which you live.  My best guess would
try 10W-30, if it thins on you, try the next highest…10W-40.
Stick with the major players and you should not have any problems.
I have always used Quaker State 10W-40 and works for me.
Just do not forget to change your oil often.  Severe or normal duty
calls for changes at either 3,000 miles or three months, whichever
comes first.  Some change at 2,500, just depends on your driving.
Extreme duty calls for changes at 1000 miles or one month.

If you were caught in a bad stuck and really had to rev it hard,
it would be wise to change the oil the next day.  Usually after
a hard workout like that, the oil will smell like fuel.  Drop the
oil as soon as you can if that happened.  Use a clean pan to catch
the oil in so you can check for anything that looks abrasive or
metallic.  If you did suspect possible engine damage, it would be a
good idea to stop off at your local 25 cent wandwash and use the
high pressure guns to spray off any dirt on your oilpan and filter.
That way you will not be decieved with gritty soil at the bottom
of your catchpan.  Also, keep your engine running if you are going
to spray anywhere close to it.  Chances are the exhaust manifolds
will get overspray and the resulting steam might stop your ignition
dead in its tracks because the cap and rotor became damp from the
steam.  Usually, if the motor is running, it won’t stall as easy.

But it is not silly worrying about what type of oil you want to
use.  Afterall, it’s your motor and there is nothing wrong about
"obessing" about the best protection.  If your budget allows, try
using a synthetic.  Keep in mind that regular motor oil is not
compatible with the synthetics, so keep an extra quart or two just
in case you might run low.  Not all stores may carry synthetic oil.

If you are really serious about getting the best protection from
motor oil.  When the time comes to rebuild your engine, check into
fitting a higher capacity oil pan, high volume pump and dual filters.
I am not familiar with the Chrysler aftermarket w/your Wrangler,
but getting a pan with a six-seven quart capacity seems possible.
Just make sure you measure the sump, it would be a bad move
to compromise ground clearance for a larger oil pan if you end
up taking that Wrangler offroad often.

Might be that the springs in the hubs are wearing down.  Behind
the lockout on most trucks is a huge spring, it keeps the gear
out of gear while in 2WD.  Sometimes, that spring loses it
springiness and you have to engage and disengage several times
for it to snap out of it.  Also, sometimes the gears within the
lockout get stuck.  Usually caused by mud, dirt, water or rust
trapped within.  About twice a year, I knock out my lockouts
and clean them out by scraping out all that muck.  Regrease it
with something kinda thin.  (I just use the CV grease that most
front wheel drive cars use.)  Make sure that everything moves
real smooth and easy, then reassemble.  It is a good idea to remove
the covers and inspect your lockouts every couple of months if you
put your truck in deep water or sloppy mud often.  Oftentimes,
debris and water flow past the o-rings into your lockouts.  This
will either rust the gears and clutches in the lockout assembly,
making them "sticky".  Or flow past the gears to contaminate your
wheel and spindle bearings.

Extend the breather line…

That sounds like a better idea than shelling out $50+ for some
fancy gadget that will probably break in a year or two.

The front end should not be a problem.  Stock on my GM truck, the
front breather line reaches up nearly to the top of the radiator,
ending just about headlight height.

The rear end may take more effort.  Of course, you can extend the
line to snake into the bed for height.  One idea would be to
buy ALOT of line and run it into either the cab or high up in
the engine compartment.  Don’t forget that water can enter
through failed seals behind the inside axle slinger.  It would
be a shame to run all that line and water sneaks its way in via
another route.  Btw, do not forget about the breather lines for
the transmission and transfer case!

Hope you get it worked out.  Many a time have I opened the plug
in an axle and see the GL-5 is now a new colour and full of
bubbles because the lube is foaming from water contamination!
But on the bright side, as long as it’s just the axles.  Water
will usually not cause immediate damage.

I drive in deep water at times also.  One modification you may
want to consider is a starter bypass.  Once in deep water, my
motor stalled because the fan was robbing a considerable amount
of horsepower by chugging water.  It was a frightful experience
because the height of the water was beyond the frame and I did
not want to physically swim under my truck to see if my starter
was shorted/grounded out because of the waters height.  I
just kneeled down on a buddies blazer tailgate, reached for my
bypass wires, touched it to the battery and lucky for me the
starter and motor fired up on the first try.  Now when I know
that the water may cause a problem with my fan, I just grab a
screwdriver, open the hood and raise the idle so I will not
have to run 20% throttle just to keep the motor running.  Put the
truck into gear and get wet and wild with less paranoia if I have
to stop behind someone.

Defective indicator lamp…

Assuming the lamp/led is not already burned out!
If you have not already, you may want to check the wiring from
your circuit board to your transfer case.  Ever since I have
owned my truck, the FWD IN USE light never worked.  But the
wire was never hooked up to my transfer case.  I can see and
feel where it goes, but…Who needs it?  I know when I am or
am not engaged!  It’s something you just learn to "feel" over time.

If you must have a working light and troubleshooting still
leads to nowhere.  I once saw a kit you can buy that was
targeted for the shift on the fly crowd.  Seems that on many
a truck, the operators were in doubt if they were still
engaged.  Easiest way to check is just open your front door
and look under your truck and release the brake.  The front
driveshaft would turn and they knew they the truck was still
engaged.  Someone put together some gizmo that attached to
the driveshaft and would get a reading from a magnetic sensor.
If the driveshaft turned, the sensor would read it and alert
the driver from an led mounted on the dash.  I do not know if
this type of device will work on your particular vehicle though.

Why not just remove the original tank and mount a larger tank in the
bed?  Most new trucks only hold 40 or so gallons, drop a 75-100
gallon inside the bed and you will never have to worry about range
or ground clearance problems again.  I have seen some that double
as a toolbox with headache rack.  They are built solid and street
legal.  I have always wanted to remove both my tanks and get
a tank-in-the-bed setup.  I use my truck for camping and thought
that it would be just perfect to mount two 30 gallon fibreglass
or plastic tanks in their place.  60 Gallons of water on board,
fabricate some skidplates and I’m a happy camper!  Plus the 100
or so gallons of fuel in the bed would be a big help because I only
average around 05-06 Mpg in 4HI.  I have never calculated the 4LO.
I would not be suprised if the figures pointed to gallons per mile!

As for the V10 offered in the Dodge trucks, I was really let down
on its stock performance.  Don’t get me wrong, it has some
potential.  Could be a threat on the street once the aftermarket
starts making serious parts for it.  Fords V10 is a total joke!
I was laughing up a storm when I read the specs on it.  Even with
ten cylinders, I feel it has no potential for serious low end torque.
Ford should of given it at least larger bore and stroke because the
displacement of that V10 is   t i n y  !  !  !